Verona: Beyond Romeo and Juliet
If France has Paris for its City of Love, then Italy has Verona. With the setting of Shakespeare’s famous Romeo and Juliet as its claim to fame, it’s not hard to fall in love with this little jewel box city in northern Italy’s Veneto region. One can easily get swept up in the romance that permeates Verona’s air. What is there not to love about Verona? This small but bustling city’s culture speaks eloquently to the arts, architecture, music and food while offering delight to the senses and turning these into memorable experiences. There is truly more to Verona than a famous poignant story of star-crossed lovers.
Without further ado, (or was that much ado about nothing?), come along with me and get to know Italy’s hidden treasure.
Opera Relais de Charme
We booked a 2-bedroom luxury apartment at the Opera Relais de Charme, a historical building in the heart of Verona. The hotel is centrally located and within walking distance to shops, restaurants and most of the iconic sites. Each room is named after an opera. We stayed in Puccini’s Turandot Apartments. The rooms were modern and tastefully decorated, comfortably spacious and spotless. Our needs were taken care of by a very responsive and accommodating staff. We highly recommend this hotel and we hope to definitely come back sooner than later.
Via Mazzini
Near the impressive Ponte Pietra stone bridge, Piazza delle Erbe, and other attractions is the famous shopping street known as Via Mazzini. I’m not lying when I say the shopping in this city is everything. Shops range from designer to casual, putting trendy Italian vogue next to H&M, as well as other UK and USA stores (such as Zara’s sister stores Bershka and Stradivarius). Bring on the splurging. . . or not. We decided to buy some trinkets, enjoy the city, but saved our money for the real shopping in Milan, our last stop.
Romeo and Juliet’s Balcony
O Romeo, Romeo! Wherefore art thou Romeo? I can imagine at one time, the balcony that inspired the famous scene from Romeo and Juliet could be considered “tucked away” from the mainstay, but nowadays, it’s a must-see photo spot. Also known as Casa di Giulietta, you can find it by entering off of Via Cappello, where you’ll find yourself amongst an international crowd. I think it’s wonderful how a love story can get so many people to gather, but what’s more amazing are the love notes attached to the edifice of the house with gum, as well as the bronze statue of Juliet. Legend has it that if one rubs Juliet’s right breast, he/she will find love. I would hate to think that many did not find their love because they rubbed the wrong breast! Of course, I had to take my turn just for the experience.
As for entering the actual house, I don’t recommend it. The price of the ticket is rather high, and the interior of Casa di Giulietta is crammed with tourists, making it really hard to enjoy all the exhibits.
Piazza delle Erbe
The historical center of Verona, known as Piazza delle Erbe, is a captivating place, and we spent hours here walking around. It’s really awe-inspiring to stand in the middle of this square, taking in (and taking pictures of) places like the intricate and colorful Mazzanti houses, the Baroque-style Palazzo Maffei, and the Torre dei Lamberti. But the coolest thing here? The fountain featuring the Madonna Verona, which is a relic from the Roman empire. It was built with marble from the ancient Roman forum and thermal baths. Really, you can’t miss it—and you’ll be glad you didn’t.
Piazza delle Erbe also had its Sunday market - a veritable tourist trap. They did have some neat Italian pasta and seasonings that were hard to pass on. For lunch, we decided to sample one of the restaurants at the Piazza - al fresco at the Teta de Giulieta (Juliet’s Breast, now why am I not surprised?) that serves typical Veronese home-made cuisine. It was a great restaurant, the food was excellent, and the staff friendly. In fact, the head waiter was very enthusiastic about giving one of us a birthday kiss! When in Verona, you must try the Stracotto de Musso (Donkey, yes I said it) cooked with Amarone, braised for nine hours and served with polenta. It was superb!
Torre dei Lamberti
If you’re like me and love a bird’s eye view of the places I travel to, then you don’t want to skip Torre dei Lamberti (or Lamberti Tower). This incredible 275-foot tall structure rises above the skyline, giving you a breathtaking observation point. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Austria. Also, don’t let the 368 steps to the top scare you—there’s also an elevator. But after eating all the incredible Italian pasta and gelato, the exercise is well worth it!
Sant’Anastasia (Church of St. Anastasia)
Even if you’re not religious, I think you should check out the Church of St. Anastasia. Its Italian Gothic architecture dates back to the 13th century. The church was designed by two Dominican priests in 1280. Almost everything is Veronese marble—from the pillars to vestibules and more. Within the chapels are artworks from names like Pietro da Porlezza, Michele da Firenze, and Pisanello. I had never seen holy water fonts held up by hunchback figures. Go for the historic, leave with your mind blown.
Piazza Bra
One of the largest squares in Europe, and also one of the most vibrant and energetic I’ve ever seen. I recommend taking a seat at one of the cafes and ordering a coffee or aperitif so you can people watch here. Piazza Bra is more than the shops, Gran Guardia Palace and Palazzo Barbieri, near the town hall. It’s a place of culture. People meet up here, walk, and admire the Valpolicella pink marble of the square—the same stuff used to build the Roman Amphitheatre.
Piazzale Castel San Pietro
Castel San Pietro, was built as a military fortress in the 14th century. It sits on top of a hill and affords a panoramic view of Verona. This is where serious photographers take their award-winning or Instagram-worthy photos. Though we were not able to visit the castle, we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner at Teoderico Re, a cozy restaurant that serves traditional Italian food with a modern fusion. During the day, the view from Teoderico Re is no doubt spectacular. But at night, from its garden terrace, Verona looks totally magical!
Verona is a city many underestimate and forget about—particularly because Venice and Milan are so close and more well-known. But I can’t recommend this fascinating, bright city enough. The culture, food, shopping, and historical attractions are enthralling and I guarantee you will experience love at first sight, just like I did.
